I’ve recently picked up a new Black and White (B&W) tool, Nik Software’s Silver Efex Pro 2. Though in the past I’ve used Channel Mixer to process my B&W conversions, I am happy to report that Silver Efex makes B&W not only easier, but also brings additional capabilities, primarily through the use of control points, that really extend the level of flexibility digital B&W practitioners already have.
To illustrate this, I decided to do a comparison of results I could get through Photoshop’s B&W converter tool vs. Silver Efex for the following photo I took during my recent trip to Israel.

With some nice textures on the floor and walls, plus the nice shadow vs. contrast lighting in its favor, this shot is a good candidate for B&W. In fact, with a palette that mostly includes yellows and oranges (a tip for how we should emphasize color in the B&W conversion), this image is almost monochromatic. In other words, color isn’t a key component, so we have another indicator that B&W might work.
Using Photoshop CS5′s B&W converter tool, I opted to go for a color mix that emphasized yellow and red. That and a strong contrast curve plus a little levels tweak, along with an Unsharp Mask with radius=200 and strength=20% yields the following shot.

Not a bad result, but is it all that it could be? Let’s see if Silver Efex Pro 2 can do any better. Selecting the default preset and setting the Tri-X film look with some modifications, again, emphasis on yellow and red while removing the grain Tri-X brings out by default gives us the following.

The result isn’t that much better than the one obtained with Photoshop CS5, and in fact one could argue it is less striking, even after adding a strong contrast curve. This is where some folks trying out Silver Efex would ask themselves what is the point, and would discard the tool as a gimmick. In fact, part of the problem here is the lack of “structure” (which we achieved with the Unsharp mask settings described above), and we can take things a step further by adding control points that let us emphasize or de-emphasize certain parts of the image.
In my case, I decided I wanted a little more detail on that far brick chimney and the surrounding elements, so I set a control point there, and without brightening the rest of the scene I selectively darkened and added structure to that portion of the image. With another control point for the store interior, I raised the brightness roughly to what I achieved in the first B&W conversion. Finally, with a couple of control points on the stone path, I modified brightness to differentiate tonality from light to dark, back to light in the far background, and added more structure to raise local contrast in that nice flooring and stone walls detail. After saving the Silver Efex settings, back in Photoshop I followed up with a strong contrast curve adjustment layer set at very low opacity, just adding a bit of punch over what Silver Efex generated.

Which of these versions you prefer, if any, is a matter of personal preference. I tend to like (at least today) that last version for the gritty results I achieved.
I’ll end with one final tip: before launching Silver Efex, duplicate your original layer and convert the new layer to a “Smart Object.” Once you launch Silver Efex, it will then act as a “Smart Filter,” which after you save your settings, you can re-edit again if you decide to go for a different look.